Old-Fashioned Chicken Roll (Chicken and Olive Roll)

A recipe for Chicken Roll in a 1926 magazine intrigued me. The roll was made using Baking Powder Biscuit dough, then filled with a chopped chicken and olive mixture and rolled similarly to how a jelly roll is made.

The roll can be cut into rounds prior to baking. After it is baked, it is served with White Sauce.

The recipe turned out well. The Chicken Roll rounds made a nice presentation and were tasty. The tangy, briny olives provided the predominate flavor, with the taste of the chicken being much more nuanced. If I had been the recipe author, I would have called this food a Chicken and Olive Roll.

Chicken Roll Recipe — Source: Ladies Home Journal (June, 1926)

One-half teaspoon of scraped onion did not seem like very much, so I used 2 tablespoons of finely chopped onions.

I assumed that “olives” in the recipe referred to green stuffed olives.

I have made White Sauce so many times over the years that I didn’t need a recipe for it, but I did need a recipe for Baking Powder Biscuits. Here’s a hundred-year-old that I found for them:

As directed in the original Chicken Roll recipe, I doubled the amount of shortening when making the Baking Powder Biscuit dough.

After I added the milk, I mixed the dough with a fork rather than a knife.

When I rolled the dough to 1/3-inch thickness, it seemed rather thick, so I rolled it a little more to make it about 1/4-inch thick.

I cut the roll into rounds prior to baking. Two-inch thick rounds are very thick, so I cut them into 1-inch rounds.

My husband and I ate half the rounds one day, and I reheated the remainder the next. I made a half recipe of white sauce each day that we poured over the baked rounds of Chicken Roll.

Here’s the recipe updated for modern cooks:

Chicken Roll (Chicken Olive Roll)

Servings: 3 - 5
Time: 40 minutes
Difficulty: moderate
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Filling

1 1/4 cups cold cooked chicken, finely chopped

1/3 cup chopped stuffed green olives

2 tablespoons finely chopped onion

1/8 teaspoon paprika

Baking Powder Biscuit Dough

2 cups flour

4 teaspoons baking powder

1/2 teaspoon salt

1/4 cup shortening

2/3 cup milk

White Sauce

1/4 cup butter

1/4 cup flour

1 teaspoon salt

2 cups milk

Step 1. Preheat oven to 450° F.

Step 2. Put the chopped chicken, olives, onions, and paprika in a bowl. Stir to combine. Set aside.

Step 3. Make the Baking Powder Biscuit dough by combining the flour, baking powder, and salt in a mixing bowl, then cut in the shortening; add milk, and stir with a fork until the dough forms.

Step 4. Put the biscuit dough on a prepared surface, and roll the dough into a rectangle about 1/4 inch thick (approximately 9″ X 12″).

Step 5. Spread the chicken and olive mixture on the dough, then roll the dough starting at one of the short edges (similarly to how a jelly roll is rolled).

Step 6. Cut the roll into 1-inch thick rounds, then place the rounds on a lightly greased backing sheet.

Step. 7. Put in oven and bake for 12 – 15 minutes or until the rounds are lightly browned.

Step 8. In the meantime, make the White Sauce. In another pan, using medium heat, melt butter, then stir in the flour and salt. Gradually, add the milk while stirring constantly. Continue stirring until the white sauce begins to thicken.

Step 9. To serve, put the baked Chicken Roll rounds on a plate, and serve with the White Sauce (or, if desired, pour the White Sauce on the baked rounds prior to serving).

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1926 Doughnut Recipe Poem

Sometimes old community and organizational cookbooks contain poems or sayings about food and cooking. The 1926 Pennsylvania State Grange Cookbook includes a recipe for doughnuts written in rhyme. I didn’t try making the recipe (Can you trust a recipe written as a poem?), but it was a fun read.

Hundred-Year-Old Recipe for Egg Foyung (Egg Foo Young)

I recently was surprised to find several recipes for Asian foods in a hundred-year-old U.S. cookbook. The introduction to the chapter on luncheon and supper dishes in a 1926 cookbook called Mrs. Peterson’s Simplified Cooking says:

So many persons have asked for some reliable recipes for Chinese dishes that I have included some favorite ones here. These dishes are unusual and delicious in flavor. The bamboo shoots, water chestnuts, and sauces called for may be purchased canned from any grocer who imports.

The cookbook included recipes for Chop Suey, Chinese Rice, Fried Rice, Chow Mien, and Egg Foyung. The cookbook author spelled both the Chow Mein and Egg Foo Young differently than we spell them today. I am not sure if she was uncertain how to spell them and tried to spell the words the way they sounded to her, or whether they are archaic spellings.

I have no idea how authentic the recipes are, but am guessing that they are different from foods actually served in China. In any case, I decided to give the Egg Foyung (Egg Foo Young) a try.

The old recipe calls for many of the same ingredients that modern Egg Foo Young recipes call for (eggs, bamboo shoots, water chestnuts, pork or chicken); however, the process for making the dish is a little different from most modern recipes. Many modern recipes call for pouring a soy sauce mixture on egg pancakes (or omelet), while this recipe calls for coating the cooked egg pancakes with a soy-based gravy by putting them in a skillet with the hot gravy, and then flipping to coat the other side.

The verdict: The Egg Foyung (Egg Foo Young) was fun to make and tasty.

Here’s the original recipe:

Recipe for Egg Fuyung — Source: Mrs. Peterson’s Simplified Cooking (1926)

This recipe makes a lot of Egg Foyung, so I halved the amount of batter that I made, but used the amount of vegetable oil that the original recipe called for to ensure that the oil was an adequate depth. I also made the original amount of the gravy; however, when I started putting the egg pancakes into the gravy to absorb some of the liquid, I quickly ran out of it and had to make more. So, when I updated the recipe, I doubled the ingredients used to make the gravy.

When I halved the batter-portion of the recipe, I used half of an 8-ounce can of sliced water chestnuts and half of an 8-ounce can of bamboo shoots. I refrigerated the extra water chestnuts and bamboo shoots. To use the remaining water chestnuts and bamboo shoots, I made the recipe a second time several days later.

I assumed that “Chinese sauce” referred to soy sauce. I reduced the amount of salt when I made the recipe. It seemed like the old recipe called for too much, especially since the gravy contained substantive salt because of the soy sauce in it.

Here’s the recipe updated for modern cooks:

Egg Foyung (Egg Foo Young)

Servings: 3 - 4
Time: 30 minutes
Difficulty: moderate
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1/2 cup bamboo shoots (I used half of a 7-ounce can.)

1/2 cup sliced water chestnuts (I used half of a 7-ounce can.)

1/2 cup cooked pork or chicken, cut into thin 2 inch strips (I used pork.)

6 eggs, slightly beaten

1/2 teaspoon salt

1/2 cup vegetable oil

2 tablespoons corn starch

4 teaspoons water

2 tablespoons soy sauce

1 cup broth or water (I used beef broth.)

Step 1. Cut the water chestnuts and bamboo shoots into thin strips. If the bamboo strips are longer than two inches, cut them in half.

Step 2. Put the eggs, water chestnuts strips, bamboo shoot strips, and pork or chicken strips into a mixing bowl; stir to evenly distribute all the ingredients.

Step 3. Put the oil and salt in a large heavy skillet and stir, then heat until hot using medium heat.

Step 4. Drop the egg mixture from a tablespoon into the hot oil. Evenly space the spoonfuls of the mixture in the pan. Cook until the egg mixture thickens, then flip and cook the other side. Remove from pan and put on a warm oven (275° F.) while while making the remaining ones. The egg pancakes will need to be cooked in several batches.

Step 5. Once all the egg pancakes have been made, pour any remaining oil out of the skillet. Turn off heat until the soy gravy is mixed.

Step 6. To make the soy gravy, put the cornstarch in a bowl, add 4 teaspoons water, then stir until the mixture is smooth. Stir in the 1 cup of broth or water.

Step 7. Reheat skillet using medium heat, then add the gravy mixture. Heat until the mixture thickens, while stirring continuously.

Step 8. Place a few of the egg pancakes in the gravy, then flip, and remove from the skillet. Repeat until all of the pancakes are coated with the gravy. Serve immediately.

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What’s the Most Famous American Dessert?

According to a 1926 Jell-O advertisement, Jell-O is the most famous American dessert. Really? Was that an accurate statement a hundred years ago? . . . or was it the aspirations of a company advertising a product?

I think that the old ad was referring to the U.S. when the it said “America,” but I’m not sure. Maybe it meant North America or all of the Americas.

Based on an informal survey of two people – my husband and myself – the most famous dessert in the U.S. is apple pie. Of course, it could have been something different a hundred years ago (Jell-O????).

Old-Fashioned Macaroni Chicken Salad

Macaroni Chicken Salad in bowl

The season for picnics, reunions, grilling outside, and potlucks is upon us. It is also the season for old-fashioned pasta salads. A hundred-year-old issue of Ladies Home Journal contained a recipe of Macaroni Chicken Salad, and I decided to give it a try.

The Macaroni Chicken Salad differed from many modern pasta salads in that it contained no celery or onion. Instead, the recipe called for a cucumber, as well as for two chopped pimentos (which I interpreted to mean red peppers), in a mayonnaise dressing.

The salad was creamy, colorful, and flavorful. The chopped cucumber added a refreshing crunch, with the chicken providing a slightly savory protein. It would be a perfect side dish at a pot luck or other gathering. It is also lovely as a light lunch or dinner main dish.

Here is the original recipe:

Macaroni Chicken Salad Recipe — Source: Ladies Home Journal (April, 1926)

The original recipe called for one cup of mayonnaise. If this much mayonnaise was used, the salad components would be thickly coated. I wanted a lighter dressing, so used ½ cup of mayonnaise.

I used a boneless chicken breast when making this recipe – though other parts of the chicken (or left-over rotisserie chicken) would also work well. If the water was not salted when making the macaroni (or if the diced chicken did not contain salt), a little salt might enhance the flavor.

I chopped an unpeeled cucumber rather than slicing it.

My sense is that red peppers were smaller a hundred years ago than what they are today, so I used just one red pepper.

I ignored the serving suggestions. I ate this salad for lunch, and it was sufficiently substantive without the addition of brown bread sandwiches. The salad was colorful with just the chopped red pepper and cucumbers, so I did not garnish with julienne strips of red pepper.

Here’s the recipe updated for modern cooks:

Macaroni Chicken Salad

Servings: 6 - 8
Time: 20 minutes
Difficulty: easy
Print

2 cups cold, cooked macaroni (approximately ¾ cup uncooked macaroni)

2 cups cold cooked chicken, coarsely chopped or shredded

1 cucumber, chopped or thinly sliced (about 2 cups)

1 medium red pepper

½ cup mayonnaise

½ teaspoon salt (optional)

Put the macaroni, chicken, cucumber, and red pepper in a bowl; stir gently to mix. Add mayonnaise (and, if desired, salt); stir gently to coat the other ingredients.

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Serving Breakfast in Bed a Hundred Years Ago

Woman carrying a tray with food. — Source: The New Winston Cook Book of Guaranteed Recipes (1926)

The only time that I’ve had the luxury of getting breakfast in bed was when my husband and children used to serve me breakfast in bed on Mothers’ Day. A hundred-year-old cookbook suggests serving breakfast in bed to houseguests. I think that any of my friends or relatives who are overnight guests would be shocked if I served them breakfast in bed. Maybe this is one of the things that has changed over the years.

“Grandmother’s” Strawberry Whips

Strawberry Whip on plate

The June, 1926 issue of Good Housekeeping magazine had a Crisco shortening advertisement that contained a recipe for Grandmother’s Strawberry Whips. Apparently Strawberry Whips were considered an old-fashioned dessert a hundred years ago.

These old-fashioned Strawberry Whips are sweet muffins that are filled with a whipped cream and mashed strawberry mixture, and then topped with a whole strawberry. The muffins are a cross between shortcake and cupcakes.

This recipe differs from modern Strawberry Whip recipes. (Usually, modern recipes do not include the “s” at the end of “whip.”) Today Strawberry Whip recipes generally make a creamy whipped dessert that does not contain a muffin or cake.

This recipe is a winner. The old-fashioned Strawberry Whips were fun to make, tasty, and made a lovely presentation.

Here’s the original recipe:

Strawberry Whips on tray

recipe for Strawberry Whips — Source: Good Housekeeping (June, 1926)

The old recipes says it makes 16 muffins. I only got 12 muffins. The muffin cups the recipe author used must have been smaller than the ones in my muffin tin.

It’s often difficult to find pastry flour, so I used all-purpose flour when I made this recipe. It worked fine.

Butter can be substituted for the shortening.

I used a 1-pound box of strawberries when I made this recipe, plus a few extra strawberries to garnish the Whips.

The recipe called for 1 cup whipped cream, which does not seem like enough to fill 12 muffins, so I assumed that the recipe meant 1 cup of whipping cream (which would make 2 cups of whipped cream).

I put paper liners in the muffin cups. After baking, I removed the paper liners prior to filling the muffins.

Here’s the recipe updated for modern cooks:

Strawberry Whips

Servings: approximately 12 muffins
Time: 1 hour
Difficulty: moderate
Print

1 cup sugar

1/2 cup shortening or butter (softened)

1/2 teaspoon salt

1/2 cup milk

3 eggs, slightly beaten

2 teaspoons baking powder

2 cups all-purpose flour

1/2 teaspoon vanilla

1-pound strawberries + additional whole medium-sized strawberries to top the Strawberry Whips

1/2 cup confectioners’ sugar + 3 tablespoons confectioners’ sugar

1 cup heavy whipping cream

Step 1. Preheat oven to 375° F.

Step 2. Cream shortening or butter, sugar, and salt together until light and smooth.

Step 3. Add eggs, milk, and baking powder; mix until smooth. Then add flour; stir until combined. Add vanilla, and stir until evenly distributed.

Step 4. Put the batter in a prepared muffin tin. If desired, line the muffin cups with paper liners. (After baking, remove the paper liners prior to assembling the Strawberry Whips.) Fill each muffin cup 3/4th full.

Step 5. Bake for 25-30 minutes or until a wooden pick comes out clean. Remove from oven, and allow the muffins to cool.

Step 6. In the meantime, coarsely chop most of the 1-pound of strawberries. (A few medium ones can be reserved for topping the Strawberry Whips. Additional medium strawberries will be needed to get enough strawberries to garnish all the muffins.) Put the chopped strawberries in a bowl and stir in 1/2 cup confectioners’ sugar. Allow to sit for 15-30 minutes, so that the juice is drawn out of the strawberries, then slightly mash using a fork. Then, drain the strawberries using a strainer.

Step 7. Also, in the meantime, put the heavy cream in a bowl, and beat until stiff peaks form; then sprinkle the 3 tablespoons confectioners’ sugar on top of the whipped cream and beat a little more to combine the sugar with the whipped cream.

Step 8. To serve, remove the center of the muffins by cutting about 1/2-inch from the edge of each muffin. (Cut about 1/2-inch deep.) Remove the top, then scoop the center out of the muffins. Use care when removing the center, so that the muffin’s shell is not torn.

Step 9. Stir the drained strawberries into the whipped cream.

Step 10. Fill the hollowed-out muffins with the strawberry whipped cream mixture. Heap it up a little so that it nicely tops the muffins. Remove stem and leaves from the medium-sized strawberries, and then press them upside down in the strawberry whipped cream.

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